Most people have heard of Gibraltar, and more are going every year, especially on cruise ships. We did a three-week round-trip road trip from Malaga with much easier, seasonal non-stop flights from the USA. A stopover in Gibraltar was always a key part of our travel plan. On our way to cross the border, Gibraltar’s Rock loomed ahead of us. As if an imaginary object, we were excited to reach it.
We’d heard Gibraltar wasn’t great, but we loved it. We only had two nights and one full day, busy from start to finish, but it was fantastic. You know that feeling. When you look back at photos and videos, remembering the unbelievable variety of what you saw and did in less than 24 hours.
And the fun part about this library blog, is the famous author – Ian Fleming of James Bond fame who worked on Gibraltar before he became a famous author. Standard writer advice is: Write what you know. And from what I’ve learned during our visit, he made use of many spy techniques from his days and nights in Gibraltar. His books sold over 100 million copies, so his time in the military paid off. Ian Fleming bought a house in Jamaica and named it Goldeneye, which was also an operation he was involved in there. More on Bond and Fleming later.
Gibraltar is only 2.6 square miles, so it’s hard to believe we didn’t see or do everything we wanted. But there was so much to do, especially on the Upper Rock and at the Nature Preserve. In town, it felt like we’d wandered into a movie set that had switched Spain to England. The British food, including fantastic fish and chips from Roy’s, and pubs on almost every corner in town, created a fun UK detour.
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Gibraltar, officially a British Overseas Territory, is about 3 miles long and less than a mile wide. You can easily wander around in a few hours. But beware of the hills. It was an uphill climb to The Rock Hotel from town. And the cable car is under major repair, so instead shuttle vans bring visitors to the Top of the Rock.
So, let’s get to the library first, which deserves this blog even without mentioning 007. But I believe the bookish Ian Fleming may have visited the library while working in Gibraltar during World War II or afterwards when we he returned here.
The Garrison Library was founded in 1793, and from the looks of it, the founders could walk back in and feel right at home. Except for a few modern conveniences. The books and furniture look about the same. I’m sure glad they haven’t done a modern glossy white makeover.
The library is hidden away up a hill and behind foliage and trees on a street they call Library Ramp. Not a street, but a good, steep upward incline or “ramp,” reminding me of all those unnamed ramps in San Francisco. Once inside the library, someone like Ian Fleming could search the shelves for an obscure naval chart or a hidden map. His quest? Rare and random bits of information to adapt into a dazzling, unexpected operation to save the day and the British from losing the war.
A library is the perfect cover. Who would suspect a bookworm nosing around inside a library? Ian Fleming could slip into this old library in disguise, perhaps wearing a trench coat. After the war, Fleming had actual work experience and avoided writer’s block and the pressure to make things up. He sat on a writer’s goldmine. How thrilling! But stay calm and read on.
The garden in front of the library is another quiet spot to get away from the crowds. Close to town but secluded, and what could be a useful meeting spot for secret agents. The foliage is so thick you could easily hide there, too. The view of the front door:
And behind the library building, there is a private garden just for visitors and guests. A sunny area to linger and unwind with a book or conversation. The library staff had lined up champagne glasses for a party. Bond always seemed to have time for cocktails. Successful mingling and eavesdropping during parties must be mission critical to excel as a spy.
Before the afternoon visit to the library, we headed to the Top of the Rock and Gibraltar’s Nature Reserve. It’s open daily, but the cable car is under renovation. Vans now carry tourists to the Upper Rock to see the sights. Which was easier than riding the cable car and walking, since the sites are spread out. But if you’re up for a workout and saving money, you can walk it via the Mediterranean Steps.
Up on the Rock, we saw the highlights we could fit into our schedule. We had to save for next time: the Great Siege Tunnels and Upper Galleries, the Gibraltar Museum, and King’s Bastion. Here’s what we saw: the World War II Tunnels, St. Michael’s Cave, Europa Point / Rock of Gibraltar, and the top attraction in Gibraltar: The Apes’ Den, home to the Barbary macaques. Let’s start with the exhibit on Ian Fleming.
World War II Tunnels: During World War II, 52 miles of tunnels were blasted through the rock, in addition to work done back in the 1700s. Several exhibits were on view, but the one on James Bond was fantastic. This World War II airplane gives you a sense of the enormous size of these tunnels.
1939 Operation Mincemeat: While not related to Gibraltar, Ian Fleming developed the idea for Operation Mincemeat while in London in 1939 as the assistant to the Director of Naval Intelligence and Rear Admiral John Godfrey. He outlined this concept in the Trout Memo as planting misleading papers on a corpse. This idea was used by M15 officers four years later. If you like spy/war thrillers, I highly recommend the 2021 film Operation Mincemeat, with Ian Fleming portrayed in the movie. Link to Operation Mincemeat 2021 Film Trailer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwkSyrN0mvY
1941 – Ian Fleming visits Gibraltar and the Tunnels, develops Operation Tracer aka Stay Behind the Cave: Hitler approved Operation Felix in 1940 to send German troops through Spain and capture Gibraltar. Ian Fleming was part of Operation Tracer to address a possible German takeover of Gibraltar. Six men would be sealed inside a secret room within the mountain with food and supplies to last for seven years. They’d watch the enemy via a visual slit to view the harbor and had radio equipment.
Luckily, the room was never needed since Franco, Spain’s dictator, refused to join the war. After the war ended, the British sealed the room and lost track of the highly classified room’s location. In 1997, a local caving group found it. Rear Admiral John Godfrey was a key part of the planning, and Ian Fleming was his personal assistant. Many believe Godfrey inspired the character M in his James Bond books.
1941 Operation Goldeneye: Ian Fleming helped design this contingency plan while in Gibraltar in 1941. This plan was to go into effect if Spain joined the Axis and allowed the German army to march toward Gibraltar. If or when that took place, activities in Spain would be monitored, with secret reports sent back to HQ. Sabotage teams would destroy Gibraltar’s infrastructure to keep it safe from the enemy. Luckily, this never occurred, so Operation Goldeneye never went into action. However, Ian Fleming named his Jamaican winter home, where he wrote most of his Bond books, and Goldeneye was filmed in 1995.
1942 – 30 Assault Unit (30 AU): Ian Fleming ran and commanded a multinational group of rogue elite forces, aka intelligence commandos. They moved ahead of advancing Allied forces to steal enemy codebooks, charts, and hardware before being destroyed. These operatives and what they did became useful raw material for Ian Fleming’s James Bond novels, including the character Q and the Double-0 Section.
1944 – Operation Overlord aka D-Day and the Normandy Invasion: To liberate France and overpower Germany, Ian Fleming oversaw sending intelligence to prepare the Royal Navy for the Battle of Normandy. The success, despite so many lost lives, liberated France and led to the end of the war.
1952 – Project “Write a Novel”: Casino Royal: After the war, Ian Fleming wrote his first spy novel, Casino Royale, from Goldeneye, his Jamaican home. Published the following year, James Bond has been a famous spy ever since. He wrote thirteen more books. In 1964, Ian Fleming died at 56 in England, with his last James Bond book published in 1966. Several writers have continued the James Bond stories. Two James Bond films feature Gibraltar, with scenes shot there for The Living Daylights and You Only Live Twice.
Besides the library and tunnels, here’s some other fascinating places on Gibraltar.
St. Michael’s Cave: The Rock’s largest cave has many fine stalagmites, subterranean passageways, and an amphitheater. The cave was set up to be used as a hospital during World War II, but it was never used. A light music show repeats often, and I recorded part of it. Fantastic seeing the cave lit by their music. Here’s the link to my video on YouTube of St. Michael’s Cave laser show with original music from the cave! https://www.youtube.com/shorts/hOPSGlsIkmA
Europa Point / Rock of Gibraltar: This stop provides superb views of where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Mediterranean Sea. And when the haze clears, it really paid off. The UK received it as a consolation prize in 1713 after a war with Spain. But it has been home to many nationalities, including Neanderthals from 50,000 years ago.
Gibraltar, the name, originated from the Arabic words Jabal Ṭāriq. If you say it aloud quickly, it sounds like Gibraltar. Morocco, in North Africa, is just 12 miles away and often visible. At first, it wasn’t clear to see, but the clouds and haze lifted.
The Apes’ Den: Home to the Barbary Macaque Monkeys: My favorite part of the visit was getting to see some of our long-lost ancestors – Barbary macaques. Most monkeys have tails, but the Barbar macaques on Gibraltar do not. They are still monkeys and not apes. They are fed a diet of fruit and vegetables, so they don’t grab bags to look for food anymore. Their new favorite item is hats, so beware. They love ice cream and other fatty treats just like we do.
The Barbary macaques arrived as pets from North Africa back in the 1600s. Protected by law, they are managed by the Gibraltar Ornithological & Natural History Society, which provides them with food, freshwater, veterinary care, and population control.
Link to my playlist on YouTube with 4 videos of the Macaques monkeys in Gibraltar with some background music. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLT4E4u2bmA0A
Here’s one last look at Gibraltar and our classy hotel. High-end, but how often can you stay on the Rock at the glamorous Rock Hotel? The lobby’s walls are filled with black and white photos of celebrities and famous guests such as Winston Churchill and Errol Flynn. Ian Fleming was a guest later after the war ended.
For some quiet time or to do research, what better place than Gibraltar’s Garrison Library? And to me, anytime is a good time to go to the library, unless it’s about to close. If you’ve read one of the James Bond books by Ian Fleming and have anything to add as a comment, please do. I haven’t read one yet, but it’s moving up on my long to be read list.
Karen Stensgaard is a novelist who lives on Amelia Island but prefers traveling. She has three books indie published. Her fourth book wouldn’t stay contained within the typical 80,000-word story. Since it kept growing, and the story kept getting better, it’s a trilogy. The editing to tame the beast but not kill it takes time. This is officially my last trilogy, and please remind me if I mention beginning another one. Karenstensgaard.com
